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Trent ValleyDoor & Opener Co. · Havelock-Belmont-MethuenOpen 24/7(249) 494-2877Request a visit
A person kneels beside the black bottom seal of a garage door, with daylight visible beneath the edge. — Garage Door Bottom Seal Replacement, Havelock-Belmont-Methuen

Repairs · Havelock-Belmont-Methuen

Garage Door Bottom Seal Replacement in Havelock-Belmont-Methuen

The garage doubles as a workshop, and with the heater running the floor near the door stays cold and the draft finds your ankles at the bench. When the wind is up you can feel the air moving under the door.

Garage Door Bottom Seal Replacement

In plain words

A seal visit runs in a set order. With the door closed, the technician looks for daylight along the floor line and notes whether the gap is even or concentrated at one point. The door is checked for level and the bottom section for straightness, then the retainer is identified and measured. The opener is disconnected and the door secured before the old strip comes out and the channels are cleaned. A new seal, cut a little long, is fed into the channels and trimmed. Finally the door is closed onto the new seal, the opener's limits are reset, and the reversing test is run before the tools go away.

Sound familiar?

The garage doubles as a workshop, and with the heater running the floor near the door stays cold and the draft finds your ankles at the bench. When the wind is up you can feel the air moving under the door.

How the visit goes

Havelock-Belmont-Methuen

How the visit goes

  1. Which retainer and which profile

    Next the retainer along the bottom rail is identified. Most steel doors carry an aluminum extrusion with two channels that take the T-shaped or beaded edges of a U-shaped seal; some insulated doors have the channel moulded into a plastic bottom cap; older doors may have a single channel; wood doors often have a strip nailed straight to the rail. The technician measures the channel spacing and the T or bead size, checks the door width, and notes the height of the old strip. A seal chosen from these measurements slides in cleanly and holds, which is the difference between a replacement that lasts and one that works loose.

  2. Taking the old seal out

    With the door secured, the ends of the old strip are freed from any caps or folds and the seal is drawn out of its channels from one end. A supple seal slides; a hardened one is coaxed with a flat blade and a little silicone, or cut into short lengths and removed a piece at a time. Old nails come out of a wood rail with a claw. The channels are then cleaned of grit, rust flakes, salt crust and any remnants of the previous strip with a wire brush and a scraper, because a clean channel is what lets the new seal feed through without tearing.

  3. What to look for each season

    Once a season, close the door, turn off the lights and look along the floor. You are checking for a line of daylight, a corner where the seal hovers, an end that has slipped from its channel, and cracks along the fold of the bulb. Run a hand along the strip for stiff or brittle patches. Then watch the door close under power once and notice how it lands. A change in any of these is worth a call while the fix is a seal or an adjustment rather than a torn strip dragged through a winter. The check takes less time than reading this paragraph.

Garage Door Bottom Seal Replacement

In the van

  • Silicone spray lubricant
  • Bead-style bottom seal
  • Wire brush and scraper
  • Straightedge and tape measure
  • Threshold seal and adhesive

What affects the quote

Same fees day, night or weekend

  1. 1Rodent-resistant seal

    A profile with embedded stainless mesh for a garage that has had repeated chewing costs more per length than plain vinyl and is offered where the history calls for it.

  2. 2Door out of level

    If one corner of the door hangs low because of cable or spring tension, levelling the door is separate work done before the seal goes in and is priced on its own.

  3. 3Number of doors

    Two single doors are two seals, two inspections and two opener resets. The travel is shared, so doing both in one visit costs less than two separate calls.

What to have ready

0 of 3 ready

Call (249) 494-2877

Garage Door Bottom Seal Replacement: questions

Will I need a new retainer as well as a seal?

Only if the existing one is damaged, and most are reused. A retainer that is straight, tight to the rail and free of heavy corrosion stays. One that has been kinked by a bumper or shovel, spread open so the seal slips out, or eaten by salt is replaced with a matching aluminum extrusion so the new seal seats properly. The inspection at the start of the visit settles which applies.

Should the side and top weatherstripping be replaced at the same time?

It is worth having them looked at while the technician is there. The vinyl fin on the stop moulding around the jambs and header shrinks, tears and hardens on the same schedule as the bottom seal, and a draft that survives a new bottom seal usually comes from the sides. Doing the perimeter in the same visit saves a return trip and leaves the door sealed on all four edges.

How do I look after the new seal?

Wipe it clean of salt and grit a few times a year, and give it a light coat of silicone spray each autumn so meltwater has nothing to bond to. Keep petroleum products and solvents away from it, since they soften vinyl. Clear ice and packed snow from the threshold before running the door in winter. Once a season, look under the closed door for daylight. That is the whole routine.

Repair & Maintenance

Garage Door Bottom Seal Replacement near you

For homes and businesses in Havelock-Belmont-Methuen we handle the full run of garage door work: broken springs and cables, doors that have left the track, openers and remotes that stopped answering, worn rollers and seals, tune-ups, and new doors chosen and installed to suit the building.

Open 24/7 · call(249) 494-2877Request a visit